The Publican beer dinner wrap-up

The Publican executive chef/proprietor Paul Kahan hosted an industry-only dinner last Tuesday, Nov. 17, with Louis Glunz Beers Inc. Paul and his team--chef de cusine Brian Huston and beer director Michael McAvena--treated us to a five-course pork and seafood feast paired with Belgian, German and American beers. Here is my take on the menu, and by all means, if you also attended this dinner, do share your thoughts in the comments section below. If you'd like to learn more about the menuing opportunities for craft and import beers, be sure to contact Jennifer at jenniferfaulk@glunzbeers.com.

Wellfleet Oysters--oysters from Wellfleet Harbor, MA, served with mignonette sauce and lemon wedges, paired with Gouden Carolus Hopsinjoor

The menu description said "clean, crisp," and that pretty much sums it up. The fresh oysters had a mild briny flavor, which was brought out by the bubbly Belgian IPA. The shallot in the mignonette sauce helped round out the flavors.

Charcuterie Plate--pork pie, wild partridge and hare terrine, head cheese, morteau sausage (smoked andouille), boudin blanc, kielbasa, lardon (and more!), pickles and mustards
Potted Rillettes--with pears and toasted sourdough
paired with Saison de Pipaix and Oud Beersel Oude Kriek

In my notes, I wrote that this plate is "a meat lover's dream"--I was clearly euphoric. Several of us at the table gushed about how much we wanted to walk back into the kitchen and hug whoever made the charcuterie. At one point, someone declared that they'd also like to swim in a vat of the rillette. There were so many potential combinations of cured meats, mustards and beer that it was hard to pick a favorite. But I have to say that I did really enjoy the savory boudin blanc with the mustard with dried cherries and the kriek, which was sort of wet-smelling and funky for a cherry lambic. I was also a fan of how the slight sweetness of this saison cut through the richness of the rillette.

Fried Clams--clams from Stonington, ME, battered and coated in crumbled salt and vinegar potato chips, celery root "fries," fried lemon rings, red onion, Parmesan and tarter sauce, paired with North Coast Le Merle Saison

Le Merle is one of my favorite saisons (and it's not even made in Belgium!). Unlike the previous saison we had with the charcuterie, this one was less on the sweet side and more on the herbaceous, barnyard side in terms of flavor. It was very cleansing with all the fried deliciousness on the plate. The beer brought out the light bitterness of the fried lemon. The crunchy yet still-juicy clams contrasted nicely with the crispness and spice of the saison. Related side note: I could have eaten the earthy-sweet celery root "fries" all night.

Potée--pork from Becker Lane Organic Farm, Dyersville, IA, toulouse sausage, pork tenderloin, pork confit, braised cabbage and turnips, horseradish aïoli, paired with Rochefort 6

This Belgian strong dark ale was kind of caramely (probably from a brewing sugar called Belgian dark candi). That sweetness, along with the robust carbonation, did a great job of cutting through the rich, stewed flavors of the pork. The beer also provided a great contrast to the braised cabbage.

Honey Gelato--with fresh pear, cocoa nibs, caramel sauce and burnt caramel streusel, paired with Weihenstephaner Vitus

This pairing was perhaps the most interesting of the evening. The Vitus, a helles (essentially a stronger version of a hefeweizen), enhanced the creamy mouthfeel of the honey gelato. You don't normally think of a light beer being "creamy," but Publican beer director Mike told our table that the mouthfeel was thanks to the suspended yeast in the beer. The slight bitterness from the cocoa nibs and the saltiness from the streusel kept this pairing from becoming too sweet.

--Lacey Griebeler


The Publican
837 W. Fulton Market
Chicago, IL 60607
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